The climb is 8 pitches long on solid granite, with mostly 5.4-5.5 climbing and two pitches of 5.6. mossberg 500 shot gun 12 ga. wood stock set. My friend Jon Pobst was an eager partner. I like to check the weather at least twice before alpine outings. Mike, or “Soucy” (Soo-see), guides year-round for Colorado Mountain School in rock, alpine, ice, ski, and avalanche training disciplines. The first few pitches ascend some ugly and sort of dirty gullies. Colorado Climbing | Ten Best Climbs in Rocky Mountain National Park. Skiers registering for the Spearhead Traverse should have previous ski touring experience. The first rays of the sun light up The Arrowhead. South Face, Petit Grepon. Happy hour ends at 5pm, so plan accordingly! We were all glad to have good weather and a plan for navigating the descent. Jeff and I quickly dug out our climbing gear, had a quick bite to eat, and headed for the north ridge of Spearhead. High quality furniture brand. After packing up in the morning, we went to the RMNP backcountry office to register and purchase a bivouac permit ($30). Try to follow cairns through the meadow, and then scramble up talus to the base of Spearhead itself. Plan on 4-6 hours for your ascent. The best burger and beer on the way out of Estes is at Bird and Jim. There are several climbs in RMNP that I have had my eye on and The North Ridge on Spearhead was one that a friend of mine, Greg Dooley, also happened to be interested in. North Buttress (5.7, 6 pitches) Pagoda Mountain, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. The scenery grows more dramatic as you climb from Mills to Black Lake, where you’ll catch your first views into upper Glacier Gorge. Disclaimer: Conditions change quickly in the mountains. Prepare yourself for the adventure of a lifetime. You can go right over the top to the Trorey-Decker col, or drop down a steep slope from the east ridge of Decker to a lower part of the Trorey Glacier. I like to carry a small summit pack with snacks, water, a rain jacket, small knife, and a first aid kit/locator beacon. My clients were elated and exhausted! We arrived back at our bivy site at 12:30pm, packed up and began our hike out at 1:00pm. This climb has no fixed anchors and requires solid and efficient multi-pitch climbing skills. The North Ridge is give or take nine pitches of sustained, but very moderate fifth class climbing directly to the summit of Spearhead. Comfortable approach shoes and trekking poles are recommended for this hike. Climb North Ridge rated 5.6 with a few variances and the last pitch is an exposed hand/finger crack. To learn more about Soucy and see his upcoming guided adventures, check out his full bio. After choosing the objective, we decided to make a two-day ascent to take advantage of the scenic bivouac opportunities in upper Glacier Gorge, located just minutes from the base of the climbing. The North Ridge of Spearhead is a perfect intro to alpine rock climbing for the experienced multi-pitch climber with good physical fitness. Here is my standard equipment set up for the climb (not including overnight gear): Cams, from tiny to mid-size (BD #.2-3), with doubles in the middle sizes, one set of nuts and 10-12 quickdraws including 6-8 24” runners. Coming up the 5.5 chimney at the end of P1. Pass Mills Lake, Black Lake and up east drainage weaving the best path the North Ridge of the Spearhead. At 3PM we reached the base of the summit block but decided that the time and exposure required to rope up and climb onto the block was an unnecessary risk; we took pictures instead. This route was very highly praised in the Roach guidebook. (53), Climber's Log Entries Our plan included a leisurely 4 hours to approach the bivouac sites on day one, a 6am start to begin our climb the next day, summit at 11:00, and an estimated return to the trailhead at 3pm. For us, we reached the summit at 11am and the top was windy! 3. He had climbed the route four or five times and was happy to climb it again. Nice bivy spots 5 minutes from the start of the route. We arrived back at the Glacier Gorge trailhead at 3:30pm. Spearhead, North Ridge (Alpine 5.6) Price: 1 person – $599 / 2 people – $999. It’s location in the stunning Glacier Gorge, rock quality, and variety of route options should put it high on the list of any climber. Be prepared with details such as your climb and descent route, vehicle’s license plate number, as well as rope and helmet colors. For example, the Great day, rode the shuttle bus as it was a Saturday. This will take a solid 3 hours for most parties moving at a moderate and consistent hiking pace. First around 3 days before and again within 12 hours of departure. Refer to Rossiter’s guide for good descriptions and photos. The wind was moderate with gusts (~20mph) and required us to use non-verbal communication strategies between climber and belayer. A full completion of the loop would have to wait another day. Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. The Diamond, Long's Peak. info@coloradomountainschool.com © 2020 Colorado Mountain School, All rights reserved. Spearhead’s North Ridge requires a 6-mile approach, gaining 2,000’ of elevation from the Glacier Gorge trailhead. The approach, climb, and descent were all snow-free and dry. Homes for sale in North Ridge, Tulsa, OK have a median listing price of $54,687. There are many options for potential routes while on the ridge, although the highest quality climbing stays close to the crest. Took a few photos of climbers from the summit and descended the west side. One-day ascents are common, but require a very early (3am?) The Keyhole, Long's Peak . From Black Lake, an unimproved trail climbs steeply east to the upper bench of the gorge, where you’ll follow cairns along the glacial moraine to the bivouac sites. North Ridge, Spearhead. The climber's path heads around the left side of the lake. Shouldn't need more than this. All Rights Reserved. Most routes are on the face directly above the meadow, and the North Ridge is around the corner to the right. Adam leading towards to summit ridge. From top of Showcase T-bar on Blackcomb, cross Blackcomb Glacier to the Blackcomb-Spearhead col 2. See my account below leading up to and during the adventure. The sun was just coming up as we sorted out our kit and had a snack. • McHenry's looms over Black Lake. It features … One 60m rope is adequate and comfortable sticky rubber shoes for the descent required. So, I decided to do both! This will take a solid 3 hours for most parties moving at a moderate and consistent hiking pace. This is a great climb for those who are getting introduced to more technical alpine climbing and want to climb one the most classic routes in the park. The North Ridge of Spearhead is an easy, high quality, fun route, in the beautiful setting of Glacier Gorge in Rocky Mountain National Park. The We discussed the gear required for the overnight trip and strategies for packing. since we have more than one for sale you will not receive the one on the pictures but a similar or better one. The conditions you read in this trip report may be outdated. Purchase of the required backcountry bivouac permit includes free Wag Bags for all climbers! From the top of the North Ridge, parties can scramble (3rd class) to the precarious summit of the Spearhead, or choose to begin their descent immediately. Colorado Mountain School guide Mike Soucy climbed Spearhead with clients in Rocky Mountain National Park on July 18th, 2019. On most days, you should plan to summit before noon or hope to get lucky with the weather. Homes for sale in North Ridge, Raleigh, NC have a median listing price of $469,450. © 2006-2020 SummitPost.org. Aconcagua mountain itself has many routes, photos, and trip reports as children. Spending an entire day on the Spearhead could lead to an unpleasant encounter with the common afternoon thunder/lightning storm. To the north of the summit ridge was a sheer 1000’ face dropping nearly to the base of The Spearhead. Traverse around the North side of Mt. After a scenic hike, there are abundant places to bivy in upper Glacier Gorge as Mike and his clients did, but the climb is often done in one long day going car to car. Standing at 10,781 feet, Mount Baker is the third highest peak in the State of Washington. Slings/cord for building your own belay anchors. After arriving in “Spearhead Basin”, locate The Spearhead’s north ridge. No spiked equipment needed. Round trip from Glacier Gorge Parking. Photos courtesy of David Russell. start from the trailhead and lots of hiking time. The north ridge of the Spearhead is considered by many to be the best climb of its grade in Rocky Mountain National Park and possibly in the country. Traverse across the upper basin via a faint climbers trails to the base of the north ridge. @mtnmia taught this cool cat about mixed climbing! The approach to the west ridge of the North Twin Sister is 6+ miles of logging roads one way (most people bring a bike, I brought running shoes), and along with the climb, this was a great training day! Lumpy Ridge - Mainliner, Sundance Buttress & Pear Buttress, The Book. Feeling a little bleary-eyed, I met Fabio at the Glacier Gorge Trailhead at 3:00. Current conditions require minimal snow travel. The most efficient descent from the North Ridge is to the west. Get Started at These 5 Denver-Area Crags, Analysis of a Historic Avalanche Cycle: The Spring of 2019, Backcountry Skiing & Splitboarding Courses. Video . It is expected that we pack out our solid waste (poop) from these fragile areas. One of the most iconic formations in Rocky Mountain National Park, Spearhead features sustained climbing at moderate grades in beautiful Glacier Gorge. The Spearhead Trip Report. The two crux pitches come at the end of the route where it steepens and narrows, so prepare for a scenic finale. Images I was psyched to have my Rab Borealis Jacket to block the wind. Trip Report . Follow his adventures on Instagram: @mnsoucy. Exceptional craftsmanship from our home to yours. Emphasis on the long runners. (11), Comments The climb is 8 pitches long on solid granite, with mostly 5.4-5.5 climbing and two pitches of 5.6. The inclusion of the Spearhead's north ridge represents a typical elitist upping of the ante, wherein the elite climber at least doubles either the difficulty or number of pitches of proposed technical climbing. There are 3021 active homes for sale in North Ridge, Tulsa, OK. There is an inherent risk of being in the mountains and this climb is no exception. Solo_N_ridge_Spearhead_3_24 (1).gpx 528.85 KB. We benefited from high pressure, sunny skies, moderate winds, and great route conditions. The North Ridge however is only an 'ok' route. Work your way around summit blocks to … The Glacier Gorge trail gains 1,600’ in 5 miles en route to Black Lake. Consider a personal locator beacon for emergencies. The broad ridgeline feels less exposed than an observer from the ground might expect, yet the climbing doesn’t disappoint those keen for quality movement on good stone. So by Summer 2016, I was definitely feeling past due on another lap up the route. The Northwest has the Spearhead Traverse. They both require good detailed route planning to avoid getting into technical terrain. Many will want a rope for belaying short sections of exposed 4th class on the East Side descent. Climbed 8/03 Spearhead Behind The Clouds Spearhead North Ridge Summer of 1996 brought Matt and I together again for another alpine climb. Expect clean, sharp flakes and cracks, as well as some brilliant face climbing on the harder routes. (720) 387-8944. The Spearhead - North Ridge July 30, 2006: Photos . Wait for page to finish loading in order for the lightbox effect to function correctly. See and hear their climbing adventure from Mike’s point of view. Our Avalanc, @andyhansenmountainguide Showed @climbstuf the col, Climbing to the top of the year. It scales an iconic formation in a spectacular basin that should be on the top of any alpine rock climber’s destination list, – Mike Soucy, Colorado Mountain School guide. The North Ridge is 8 pitches long on generally solid granite cracks and slabs. Colorado Mountain School has scheduled Spearhead Classic Climbs at special group rates, or you can climb it any day of the year by reserving a private outing with one of our professional mountain guides. The climbing gets cleaner and more exposed in the second half but none of the climbing is that remarkable. Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' Most parties, including ours, begin on Blackcomb Mountain and end on Whistler Mountain. Proper skills, experience, and decision-making are a must. We were lucky to have beautiful clear weather with little chance of thunderstorms. Generally, I count on ~1 hour to Mills Lake (2.5 miles), another 1.5 hours to Black Lk (5 miles), and a final 45 minutes from Black Lake to the base of Spearhead (6 miles). Colorado Mountain School is an equal opportunity provider and is operated under special use permit with the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forest. The team on the summit Spearhead is a stunning formation standing in a really beautiful and secluded valley. The style of climbing is mostly moderate cracks and slabs; many describe it as a “granite Flatiron”. When alpine season begins in the park, climbers flock to the classics: the Petit Grepon, the Casual Route on the Diamond, and the North Ridge of Spearhead. Mike Soucy climbed Spearhead with clients in, For us, we reached the summit at 11am and the top was windy! Gym Climbing to Real Rock, or, Why You Need to Go Outside Now, First Descents Climbing Camps: Moab May 2011, Classic Alpine Rock: The Cathedral Spires, Fitness For A Cause: Boulderites Mix Athleticism With Volunteerism, New to Outdoor Sport Climbing? After flying from Houston, TX we drive to Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado and hiked the six miles to the base of the spearhead. This is the man for the job. The climbing is clean and consistent with an … The Spearhead Traverse is a classic. 5.7 variaiton around the "piano death block". “Day 3 ice. View North Ridge Image Gallery - 53 Images. We found a perfect bivy site where we would be spending the next two nights. The north ridge of the Spearhead is considered by many to be the best climb of its grade in Rocky Mountain National Park and possibly in the country. There are two options for descending from the top of Spearhead, one going east and the other west. This is the undefined ridge that separates the vast, unbroken northeast face from the more broken northwest face. North Ridge, Spearhead, III, 5.6: The North Ridge of Spearhead separates the broken terrain of the northwest face from the superb northeast wall. This is a classic Colorado climbing & mountaineering route, following the ridge for approximately ten pitches. Nonetheless we made steady progress and I was feeling pretty good when we arrived at the base of The Spearhead's north ridge a little after 06:00. The route follows a narrow face up a sweep of granite as it steepens into the sky. The climbing is clean and consistent with an … I was psyched to have my, at special group rates, or you can climb it any day of the year by, reserving a private outing with one of our professional mountain guides, In the market for a new pair of skis? Trail: The North Ridge, Class 5.6, ~11 miles, 3300 ft elevation gain. Refer to p168 of Rossiter’s RMNP guidebook for details. I guided a two-day ascent of this climb on July 17-18 via the classic and moderate North Ridge route (III, 5.6). There are several intersections to navigate, but overall it is quite easy to follow. Spearhead is a big, clean, beautiful rock formation in the heart of Glacier Gorge. A beautiful, white northeast-facing wall which starts as a slab and steadily rises to vertical, Spearhead is surrounded and dwarfed by taller mountains in the center of the Glacier Gorge Cirque-- one of the most beautiful spots on earth. We found the approach, climb, and descent in excellent and dry condition. Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. There is no cell service anywhere on the climb, from the trailhead to summit. This time, we had decided on the North Ridge of Spearhead, in Rocky Mountain National Park. Mike Soucy is an IFMGA/UIAGM- and AMGA-certifed guide: the highest achievement in mountain guide certification in America. The Baker North Ridge is one of top 5 classic ice routes in the lower 48 states and one of the 50 classic climbs of North America. Set at the heart of Rocky Mountain National Park, the North Ridge of the Spearhead looks out at the backside of Longs Peak and follows a long, exposed ridge to a dramatic pointed summit. The route follows a narrow face up a sweep of granite as it steepens into the sky. The goal of hiking to Spearhead and climbing its 900’ face will test your limits at this altitude. I picked up Jerry Sanchez and Bo Lalovic at 6:00am. Each pitch has options for good protection and solid belay anchors. We finished our hike to the base of Spearhead in 3 hours and 50 minutes. Used fire trail up to Mills/Loch Junction. with rubber butt plate. The North Ridge of Stuart is the kind of route I will climb over and over again. Unfortunately, after scrambling the North Ridge of Spearhead (right skyline here), and traversing to the saddle between it and Chiefshead, my right knee forced an early exit back to the car via the Glacier Gorge trail. I’d recommend the West Side descent, which involves class 2-3 scrambling on talus and ledges and requires a good nose for route finding. This equals a fairly gradual gradient. 1. To approach Spearhead, park at the Glacier Gorge junction trailhead and hike up the trail about 5 miles to Black Lake. Spearhead’s North Ridge requires a 6-mile approach, gaining 2,000’ of elevation from the Glacier Gorge trailhead. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports. There are 18 active homes for sale in North Ridge, Raleigh, NC. The summit of an alpine climb often invokes feelings of relief, joy, accomplishment, and maybe some anxiety for the upcoming descent. Tackle a park classic without queueing up at the base. Mike is also a member of the AMGA Instructor Team. Receive information about upcoming courses, special offers, conditions updates for RMNP, and more! Nonetheless, we hung out to enjoy the spectacular views around Glacier Gorge, which include Longs Peak, Pagoda Mountain, and McHenry’s Peak. 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